By Jerina Zaloshnja
On the beautiful veranda of the well known “Freskia” Bar, one of the many bars in Gjirokastra, almost every evening you can come across a group of foreign visitors there talking over drinks. This has now become a ritual as there is not much else to occupy yourself with out of working hours in Gjirokastra. Contrary to the situation years ago, the presence of these foreigners does not disturb anyone now. On the contrary, the locals often exchange scraps of conversation with the foreigners from the other tables, openly welcoming and friendly. Everyone has exchanged phone numbers and they are busy learning about one another’s customs. Both sides have understood the lecture that the more open a city is to new ideas and new people, the more rapid its development. However, there exists a conflict which even the foreigners working in Gjirokastra have grasped. This is an unspoken conflict, an internal conflict of society itself. What does this mean? Anthropologist Gen Fu Jii explains. Gen is a researcher from Japan. He is doing his postgraduate studies in England, at the University Collage London.
In an interview for “Tirana Times” he talks about conclusions he has reached in his study on transition in peoples’ lives.
Q: Why have you come to Abania. What are you working on in Gjirokastra?
I have been in Gjirokastra for a year and two months, living and working. I am doing my postgraduate studies in anthropology. I am looking into the transition of peoples’ life in Gjirokastra, especially in the old part of the town, when they have undergone serious changes in their life, because of the introduction of the new materials and the introduction of a new sort of information in a way. I am looking at that kind of change in their life, in the material form. Especially I am looking at the houses; how the people do the renovation work and make life adapt to modern times.
Q: What have you discovered about this transition of peoples’ life?
Initially my hypothesis was there was a huge influence from the migrations and also to the neighboring countries, especially Greece and Italy, where people have actually been. Also people get information from the media in a way, in order to adapt to a sort of new way of life. What I actually found for the moment is that internal influence is not actually that much, it is almost indirect. But, what is going on inside the city has more impact. To me there is a distinct division between the old town and the new town in Gjirokastra. There are a lot of people who came to Gjirokastra from surrounding villages. What they have achieved in terms of businesses and everything else created a huge kind of antagonism with the people who live in the old part of the city. As you may know, until 1990 the city’s center was in the upper part of the town, but, suddenly things began to change. To me, the people who lived in the old town, tried to adopt a new way of life, throw out the new people- new comers basically. So there was a kind of jealousy of the old citizens, they try to keep alive the sense of “We are the real Gjirokastrit”. So there is a kind of huge contestation going on inside society. To me it is inevitable how society will develop: the new town will take over the social, commercial and political mainstream. We can not really resist this, it is impossible. What you have to do, is basically, adapt and go with the flow.
In the upper part of the town, almost everything is dying, but things are improving a bit because of the tourism, because of Gjirokastra’s admittance into UNESCO, last year. But actually I have pessimistic feelings about that. Some local businesses like restaurants etc, actually do quite well. But there is no a sort of a policy for the guide books. I actually met two travel writers who came here to write their editions, to write the new kind of guide books. They actually did a sort of survey on it and they got quite good things like several local restaurants that attract tourists. Those thinks might be successful, but overall there are still many changes to be made. I believe that the Municipality is thinking about this. Some things have changed, but on the broad scale, it is very difficult. There is only one way; the old town must become a museum town.
Q: I recently visited the old house of Kadare, the well known Albanian writer. It is has already been burnt down. The question is: how can we speak about positive changes in tourism if several historical and tourist values are still in ruins?
Yes, but there is a plan to have Kadares’ house re-constructed. Besides, what really needs a complete overhaul is the old Bazaar area, and the “Partizani” and “Palorto” districts close by, in particular. And the Municipality should have two or three sorts of tourist features. One of the well known houses in Gjirokastra is the Zekate House. But it is invisible. Nobody knows it. Another point is the Ethnographic museum, but the opening time is so inappropriate that so many tourists miss seeing it. The same problem exists with the Museum of the Castle. There must be maps and clear signage on how to reach these locations. But it is impossible. Only a month ago the Office for the Preservation of Monuments in Gjirokastra put up a big map there, but there is no signage indicating those places. Actually I met an Italian tourist, asking me how to get to a museum in the new town. Obviously he was completely lost.. This is the problem. There are many characteristic houses near the Bazaar where people stop for lunch. It is a pleasure to visit such places. But, as far as I know, there is no reconstruction project. The Babaramos house is wonderful, but almost invisible. There are many houses around which can be made visible and accessible to tourists.
Q: How long do you plan staying in Gjirokastra?
I have a few months to go yet. So, I can say I have been living and working here for a year or so nowō
Q: Doesn’t it seem too long to you?
It depends how you conduct your field work. One of my criteria’s is that I don’t want to be involved. I don’t want to disturb people’s lives. I need to learn things naturally. I had enough time to become familiar with the writers, the artists, of Gjirokastra. I had read Kadare’s book “Chronicle in Stome”, a few other books he has written too. Finally I can say I have my own ideas on what this place is.
Q: So, what do you think this town is? .. Besides may I ask you what your departing thoughts about this city will be?
This will not be my last visit. However I believe that things are changing everyday. This town gives you the impression that it is sleepy that not much is going on , but peoples feeling are always changing and a bad day can be turned into a good day.
