By: Anastasia Nazarko
As summer returns to Albania, and the days are getting longer and hotter– especially in Tirana– it seems as though the combination of smog and humidity are creating an almost unbearable mask over the city. Every morning, I find myself waking up earlier in an attempt to catch the ever-decreasing hours of crisp morning air. By afternoon, I am pantingطondering how I will manage the upcoming months which promise yet more blistering heat. Times like these make me realize my desire to escape the city, even if only for day; to find a place where I can recuperate and rejuvenate my senses before battling through another week of summer in the city.
Fortunately, dreams of escape do not have to remain limited to the imagination. One of the benefits of living in a small country like Albania is that many spectacular places are available without having to undertake a major journey. In fact, only about a two hour-long drive outside of Tirana lies one of Albania’s most prized sites, Ardenica.
Standing on the highest of the hill tops overlooking the plains of Myzeqe, in the center of Albania, is the Monastery of Ardenica– an important center of the Orthodox Church in Albania, dedicated to the birth of Saint Mary.
Its beginnings date back to about the 10th Century, when the foundations of one of its original churches, the Church of St. Triadha, were laid.
Towards the end of the 12th century, the St. Triadha Church and the monastery itself were damaged by what was believed to be either an earthquake or fire. The structures were reconstructed later, along with a second church, Renaissance of St. Maryء masterpiece of art and history.
The Treasures of the Monastery
The Church of St. Mary houses numerous icons and icon screens– the spot from which passages from the Bible are read. They were embellished by some of Albania’s most renowned artists: Konstandin Shpataraku of Voskopoja, as well as Konstandin and Thanas Zografi. The wooden icon screen is one of the best preserved in Albania and it is believed to have been engraved by the wood carvers of Voskopoja. The original is thought to date back to 1744. The altar and the icon holders were engraved during the same period. Inscriptions in ancient Greek can be found on the fresco and manuscripts.
The church has also managed to preserve the ancient throne of the Archbishop as well as the sacred holder where the icon chosen for the day was placed.
Among the most well known icons are those of the Lord Jesus Christ, the icon of Saint Mary, the icon of Saint John the Baptist, that of the Birth of Saint Mary, the icon of Saint Nicholas and that of Saint John Vladimir– in whose frame there also appears a presentation of the Albanian Prince, Karl Topia.
There are also numerous codices, two of which are of enormous importance and are written in ancient Slavic. One focuses on the legacy of the Kastrioti Family to the Monastery of Hilandar (in present day Greece), and the other explains how upon the deaths of the male members of the family, the treasures became the property of the Monastery itself.
Apart from these churches, the Monastery also had a library within its confines, which was unfortunately gutted by a fire in 1932. Though several hypotheses have been raised as to the cause of the fire, the real reason remains a mystery. The library, however, remains legendary not only for the wealth of volumes it had, but particularly for the codices, historical and religious manuscripts and rare and valuable treasures of the churches. Among the few remaining treasures of the library is an old prayer book from the 18th century written in Greek, and a copy of the Bible in two languages.
An Unusual Transformation
After completing a two-hour morning mass which begins at 6 am, and delivering special midday prayers for Saint Mary, Father Emanuel– the only priest at the Monastery of Ardenica (which is also the only inhabited monastery in Albania)اoes for a walk to meditate in solitude. He returns in the evening to begin the evening mass and then withdraw to his cell for personal prayer.
Many foreigners visit the monastery, mostly Japanese and Chinese tourists, particularly during the summer months. Local followers also come to view the historic property and pray in both churches.
Though Ardenica may appear to be a serene refuge, it was not always so.15 years ago it was a popular resort, far different than the place of God it has now become known as. The “cells” (small rooms), which are living quarters for the monks today, had been turned into motel rooms of a primitive style for the entertainment of the elite of the previous regime. In the courtyard of the Monastery was a restaurant.
In the mid-nineties, however, the Monastery was restored and on Easter of 1996 Father Emanuel and one other monk moved in. This was the beginning of Ardenica’s spiritual restoration, which has continued since.
