By Alba Cela
I must confess this must have been one of the most anticipated trips in my life, a journey to a place that shares important things with my own country: a language that has no connections to others, a strong sense of a long history, commitment to traditions and roots. I am talking about Basque country, where I had the privilege to be invited to talk about nothing else than the future of Europe by the Sabino Arana Foundation in an event supported by the European Democratic Party.
We don’t know much about Basque country here I must confess and neither did I. So imagine my surprise when I got to learn in the course of few days the story of the valuable oak tree in Guernica where lords had been sworn in and where presidents still are; the story of the fantastic renaissance of an industrial polluted city through the construction of one the most beautiful museums of the world and so much more about the changes that have made these lands what they are.
In addition to the beauty of the lush green hills, islets jumping dramatically into the sea the people are also something to marvel at. Fiercely proud, committed to the simple good things in life, welcoming and radiant in their smiles and unapologetic hugs.
Here the childhood friendships are not a thing of the past. The majority of local people you see standing on the doorsteps of the pintxos-selling shops sipping wine are childhood friends. They go and have different careers, families and even stints abroad but they still have the same group of friends since elementary school. I have to commend this thing which is becoming such a rarity. That and the outstanding bite size pintxos, whose endless sampling collection causes me a delicious vertigo in every shop.
Guernica- the city of peace
Franco asked the Nazis to bomb Guernica and Picasso painted the massacre in what became known as one of the key signature pieces of his art. Guernica is one of the earliest examples of modern war atrocities and now it claims a title of city of peace. It makes you wonder and reflect in these times of ongoing war that no matter how much we spin we don’t go too far from our compromised roots.
Yet peace and tranquility reign in the garden of the House of the Parliament where the sacred oak tree in the garden welcomes dignitaries to be sworn in, a tradition passed on through the centuries when old lords would do the same and swear allegiance to the old laws, a cornerstone of Basque identity.
As I start my visit in this quite place full of symbolism I can’t help but appreciate the special care inhabitants take of their history and the pride they exhume while telling it.
The Guggenheim- build it and they will come
The decision to dedicate millions of euros at a time when workers of the docks were losing their incomes and when domestic art was asking it for themselves was not easy. However the Guggenheim got built and millions of tourist later the Bilbao people made it their own.
Flanked outside by the river and hosting in its perimeter the Puppy and Maman, two amazing gigantic works of art, that enthrall all onlookers, the Guggenheim is embellished inside with everything from Rothko’s classic clean cut colors to Warhol’s multiple Marilyn’s, dynamic immersive video installations and standing large as life paintings such as the Barge. You can spend hours and hours and exhaust yourself among exciting works and temporary exhibitions.
The Guggenheim is indeed a jewel upon a crown of a town.
Bilbao
We wonder the 7 streets of the center pausing at the largest closed market in Europe which must be much more vibrant during the day. Alongside the oldest church of Saint Anthony witnesses history with grandeur.
A last stop at a neighborhood shrine to the local football club: Athletic Bilbao whose team has to celebrate at the Basilica of Begoña, the patron church of the city, if they win. A simple bar adorned with photos and trophies where one can almost touch the sense of belonging and loyalty and connection to a not so distant past when one’s pop could have been celebrating a goal with the same beer glass.
Lasting memories
People that have welcomed me here have shown me so much warmth and smiles. There is a certain happiness that radiates from within them.
In the end I had to ask: what is the secret of happiness? Turns out to be a simple formula but one that requires real guts and a dose of luck: never ending friendships and a commitment to your roots.
I can’t wait to be back here.
