Forsaken Albania

By Artan Lame
On the roads of Albania, in the Forties’ Legend has it that the first vehicle arrived in Albania in the time of Prince Vid. Just how true this is, I do not know, because in this country, the very turn of the Century itself was legend material, but this was most likely the case because eagles did not use vehicles. Anyway, during the time of King Zog and in the time of Italy, a huge amount of work was done all over the country to build a network of roads, a network which is still in use today in many zones of Albania. However what makes an impression on us, and obviously on our photographers too, is the relationship the Albanians, who broke away from the epoch of cart wheels and the mud of the highland tracks, created towards the means of the modern world that spun past them swiftly.
In the first photo, a police patrol has stopped a truck and is checking the papers of the driver. Our Albanian, compelled to observe the law, is visibly offended that anyone could possibly ask him for his documents and spoil his journey. With his typical posture of permanent self-importance, he sits there with his hands in his pockets and his woolen cap mischievously tilted to one side, to indicate to his friends on the back of the truck that he couldn’t care less about the Peppino. The traffic officer seems not to be impressed at all by all this cockiness and continues to discharge his duty. You can see above what the officer is busy leafing through, a driver’s license of the time. You can see the motorbike of the traffic officer in the background with the number plate MdS 735 (Militia della Strada). Further away you can see a Police Officer, and a part of the road block. From his posture, it looks as though he has just come out from behind the nearest bush. Our fearless white capped Albanian is wearing military boots, probably smuggled wares or stolen because War Time Rules strictly prohibited the trafficking of military apparel. You can see how heavily mud-caked his boots are sighing as they gaze down on the shiny black leather boots of the traffic officer. Occupation is so painful.
The other photo is without doubt a masterpiece of surrealism. A modern vehicle (for that time), which is traveling quite fast down the hilly road, (Just why it is going so fast down that sort of a road is anyone’s guess), and a traffic officer guiding the traffic! on the top of that summit. And to complete the picture, is the eternal Albanian, who with his back firmly turned on the modern times and the haste and bustle of this time, is staring vacantly away to the horizon, with not a care in the world. I bet if we go back to that little hill today I can assure you that the vehicle and the traffic officer will be long gone, but you will find the eternal Albanian there, with his eyes fixed on the horizon, gazing off towards the vision of the future with his backside firmly set into the mud and dust of today.