Summer’s Hot Spots: Dhermi

Spread throughout the valley of the Cika Mountains, separated by a steep torrent of water coming down from the peak into a large canyon that smoothly widens in olive groves, south of Llogara Pass. It is at the heart of the Albanian Riviera, where stands a quaint village of Dhermi, with beautiful white stone houses amidst olive and citrus trees.
It’s a place forgotten by time, and yet as old as civilization itself. At every dominating point in the village, a church or monastery stands, with bell towers rising above the rooftops as spears to the heavens, guarding the land of Gods. And yet, I dare say, its beauty is far more pagan. As one walks through the countryside one will not find it difficult to believe that the shining sun is Helios riding his golden chariot, that Triton is hiding somewhere beneath the waves, Dionysus is recovering from his hangover under the shade of an olive tree, and Aphrodite is washing her hair at the spring in the village center.
Perhaps, the ancient Greeks were dead wrong about Olympus, or maybe their Gods deceived them.
The picturesque village has some 31 churches and monasteries, many dating from the Byzantine period. There is the well preserved Panais Monastery and Church, a basilica with a Byzantine style wooden and tiled dome with a single nave dating back to the 14th century and interesting frescos commissioned during the 18th century to decorate the interior. There is also the Church of Ipapandia, also from 14th century, whose internal structure is constructed to serve both orthodox and catholic rituals and whose high bell tower on the western fa袤e is the most elegant one on the Ionian coast.
A godlike place it may be, but it’s humans who rule the earth. Ulysses is thought to have sought refuge from the storm in a cave south of Dhermi and another legend places him and his journeymen fighting Polyphemus, the Cyclops, just north of Dhermi in the Ionian coast of the Karaburun Peninsula. Phillip V of Macedonia marched through here, and Julius Caesar walked this land in pursuing Pompey and glory itself. Many more have followed, forgotten by history; barbarian hordes, crusaders, pirates, monks, vagrants etc.
Now it’s the era of the tourist. They come from all over Albania and the world in the pursuit of sea, sand, and sun. The perfect place to chill and relax.
From Karaburn in the north to the south of Dhermi, at the foot of the hill where St Theodor Monastery stands, the coast stretches to pristine, white sand beaches broken by strips of rocks in smaller coves, some of which have hardly enjoyed the presence of humans.
Dhermi Beach, facing the village itself, is the most frequented one, full of hotels, camping sites, restaurants and bars right on the coast. The choice is yours.
Chilling at the beach, working on your tan and refreshing yourself in the clear blue waters would be enough of a reason for your holidays, but even the sea offers yet more attractions. A jet ski, a rented motor boat, could offer one the chances to rediscover the coast, find places to dive, coves to enjoy as a personal kingdom and caves full of history. The Pirates Cave, situated south of Dhermi Beach remains a must see attraction, immortalized in a novel of the same name by the well known Albanian writer, Petro Marko, a local lad. While the cave itself was never used by any pirates because it is too small for any use, it is still a real architectural wonder of nature. And since we are at it, the real Pirates Cave, a refuge place but also a strong hold for local seamen, could be found up north on the Karaburun coast. One can get there by renting a boat for less than 50 euros.
There is also Drymades Beach, connected with the national road by a 3 km local road in really bad conditions, but worth the effort, as many would argue it’s more of a pristine beach and less visited by tourists which is always an advantage.
As the day goes by and Helios starts pulling his chariot down toward the west, what better experience could there be then sitting at Havana Beach Club, or Lollipop At The Beach, a mojito drink in hand, and watching the setting sun. It’s the time of day when sky, earth and sea become one in a red blaze, and if one pays close attention, one can hear the Gods whisperingƯr maybe it’s just the waves hitting the beachƷho cares!!!