By Maire Rowland
Nestled in the mountains an hour drive from Tirana, Kruja city is a magical destination rich in history, tradition and culture.
The spell begins when you spot the distant city of Kruja in the mountains on the road out of Tirana, from that moment on you are captivated. It seems surreal that this ancient place exists up this windy mountain road. Although it is located only 20 kilometers from Albania’s capital, visiting Kruja feels like you have been transported into an entirely different world. The home to the castle of Albania’s national hero Gjergj Kastrioti aka Skanderbeg, Kruja signifies an important historical place for Albanians and tourists alike.
In March the city of Kruja is a sleepy place. Quiet and peaceful with the sunshine occasionally peeking out from the clouds, you can wander the cobblestone path up to the castle without meeting another tourist.
The bazaar en route to the castle offers a fascinating collection of souvenirs, handmade jewellery, porcelain plates and collection of Albanian antiques. I wandered, curious, into a barely lit shop close to the castle and discovered an assortment of old typewriters, radios, gramophones and jewellery boxes, a collectors dream. Shopkeepers are eager to grab your attention and enthusiastically regal you with tales about their wares, if you are in search of some genuine Albanian souvenirs this market has everything you need.
The most important site to visit in Kruja is the refurbished castle containing the museum to Skanderbeg. It is difficult not to revere the fierce and courageous Skanderbeg with his stern expression, his pointy beard and his helmet adorn with a goats head. Everything about Skanderbeg’s presentation in the museum is grand, once you enter the door and pay your 200lek you have access to this marbled and magnificent establishment. With the large selection of statues on display there are moments when you feel tiny, like a little child gazing at a mythical hero.
The museum includes many ancient and impressive items alongside murals depicting the life of Skanderbeg and his eventual defeat. As if to assure those tourists wandering through the museum that Gjergj Kastrioti is not merely an exaggerated tale of Albanian might, there is a room devoted to paintings, literature and statues of Skanderbeg from all over the world. Perhaps the most impressive ode to Skanderbeg has the least dramatic presentation, a small glass box containing the opera script composed by Antonio Vivaldi entitled “Skanderbeg” . The Italian composer was clearly enamored with the Albanian hero way back in 1718 when he first performed the opera in Florence. Why Hollywood hasn’t come knocking and proposed a lavishly over-the-top screenplay of this 15th century legend remains a mystery to me.
The most wonderful part of the tour is the access visitors are given to the castle’s turret. Mid-way through the tour of the museum you can wander out into the open air and breathe in the magnificent surroundings. From this vantage point you can view sprawling Tirana, Durres, Lezhe castle and the Adriatic Sea. Even on a dull March day when the clouds are interrupting my view of the horizon the panoramic view from the turret is a wonder to behold. Witnessing it in person helps you to better understand how Skanderbeg protected the castle from three Ottoman sieges. There are few places to hide from the Kruja lookout point.
When you are finished looking at all things Skanderbeg you can take the time to explore the castle grounds which contain a number of hidden gems that require a little adventurous wandering through the steep and twisting paths.
The quiet simplicity of the old Bektashi temple (tekke) inside the castle grounds instills an inescapable calm on those who venture through its open door. Take a moment to look up at the mountains behind the castle and you will see a lonely but striking building upon its top, this is a site for a Bektashi pilgrims, to come together to celebrate their faith. The Bektashi Sufi order is a part of the Islamic mystic tradition that was founded in the 13th century.
With a unique bazaar, a wealth of history, a touch of mysticism and an extraordinary view Kruja is an unmissable treasure for any visitor.
