By Alba Cela
Near my home, there is an American family who lives here since three years and they have a little son, David. In an email to his friends back home, he comments that “Albanians also have their big and nicely decorated Christmas tree, in the center of the capital, Tirana. It is like a small version of the Tree in New York City.” The tree in the center of Tirana cannot compare to the tree in front of the Rockefeller Center in the Big Apple, where people usually go ice-skating. Yet this benevolent child finds the will to see the positive side. When size is not enough children have always their imagination to cope with it. David’s email brings me to the topic of the holiday season, the atmosphere that surrounds us now. As I walk by the usual stalls of the market where I do my grocery shopping, I can’t help noticing the new Christmas stand, filled with the characteristic Christmas goods. Dry fruit, Italian-style panettone and bacon, expensive wine, decorated by shiny balls and pine tree branches are the most familiar sight anywhere in the world but a novel spectacle for us in Albania. Not only because for so many years we could not express or celebrate our religious beliefs. Pine trees line up the road shops and the diverse colors of the shiny decorations give children and adults a chance to become part of the atmosphere of celebrations. Now Christmas represents a festive occasion for many people of multi-confessional belonging. The midnight service in the Catholic and orthodox churches are attended by many people of diverse religions, who are used to the confessional harmony and join their relatives and friends in the celebrations. By a unique time coincidence, immediately after the New Year, Albanians will celebrate one of their biggest holidays, the Kurban Bajram. In the abundance of the stalls they find the antidote of the scarcity which conditioned their life for too long. For Albanians, New Years is a much more celebrated day given the country’s tradition. Even the Christmas tree is often referred to as the New Year’s Tree. The two consecutive holidays give people a chance to reflect on the year that is saying goodbye and to welcome the New Year with plans, dreams and objectives to reach. Some leave the country to celebrate in more exotic countries, perhaps near their emigrant relatives. Many come back to spend what is left out of their remittances with the family left back. Indeed Christmas and the holidays in general are a good occasion for business because the consumer demand goes up. The travel agencies have filled their windows with exotic posters that show how you can leave conventions behind and celebrate on the beach, accessorizing the red Christmas hat with a cocktail in your hand. The restaurants and hotels in Tirana have rushed to publish their menus and special offers for both the Christmas night and the New Year’s night. As parents fill up the shops looking for presents and gifts, one cannot help but notice the large amount of foreigners, who work in Albania and live here take the direction of the airport as they fly away to join their own families and friends, celebrate according to their own traditions and welcome the New Year in their own countries. The Christmas diner is a special occasion to gather the whole family as its is for Albanians the New Year’s diner.
What about the foreigners that live here provisionally or permanently? Do they all go back or do they choose to stay here and taste an Albanian Christmas?
I set out to find two special British OSCE employees who could not make up their minds weather they were staying here for work or for fun. Dan Redford, the Political Officer at the OSCE and Alex Finnen, the Deputy Head of the OSCE Presence in Albania, are looking forward to the Albanian Christmas and especially the food bounty it will bring. For Dan this is his first Albanian Christmas while Alex has already been here four times in the holiday season. They both plan to taste local delicacies in Albanian restaurants where lamb food seems to be a priority. Dan says that for New Years his plan is to go to his favorite place – Restaurant ‘Brazil’, just outside of Kruja. “It’s not for the feint hearted as the air is completely clouded up with the exotic perfumes of Marlboro, Dunhill or Virginia Slims. However, once you are guided to a table then you are in for a real gastronomic treat. When I first went I can remember asking for leg of lamb. Now to all UK readers ordering a leg of lamb means getting two little legs of lamb on your plate and a few peas you then have to humiliating chase around your plate. In Restaurant Brazil, they give you the whole lamb – I am not joking!”, he adds. Dan plans to cook something for Christmas but is also glad to have an emergency plan: ordering Sufllaqe if it does not work out well! He will pass on the Sheep’s head but definitely indulge on the Albanian honey-sucked cake called Shendetlije.
For both of them, the favorite eateries are outside Tirana. Among other alternatives they list restaurants in Berat, Elbasan, Gjirokaster where the scenery, the meat or the raki was just too good to forget. Christmas brings back family memories for both. They start describing the tradition of sitting in a warm home, listening to the Queen’s speech surrounded by family. A frenzy of cooking which would lead to exhaustion. Somebody playing music to the expense of the other family members’ ears. “My Grandfather would always take centre stage at this point and play his banjo – to the chorus of “Oh my darling Clementine”. My dear grandpa had a high regard for his ability on the banjo, not always shared by others in the room I have to say. However, all family Christmases are about being tolerant, I guess.” Dan adds on a funny note. Alex has a very thoughtful comparison to make while observing the decorations in Tirana. “I think the decorations this year are very good and I particularly like the lights above the road in the Boulevard and the tree in Skanderbeg Square. It reminds me of the Christmas tree in Trafalgar Square in London, which is given to us as a gift every year by the people of Norway. To me this tree has always been a special symbol of Christmas and a reminder of true friendship between peoples.” The messages are familiar and common. The holiday season is about family, love, smiles and friendship. And food of course which recurs in our conversation more often than anything! British Christmas food, fat pork sausages, mashed potatoes, strong gravy and onion marmalade, is very different from the Albanian and some of it will make it to the tables of both Alex and Dan.
They will both share the festivities with a mixture of Albanian and English friends. Alex will have a special guest visiting, his mother who will bring Christmas pudding. They will both leave to the UK for New Years as it is Alex’s mother 81st birthday, a special occasion for the whole family to celebrate. On a more serious note for both British friends, Albania is not simply the country that they work in, an obligatory stop. It feels like home, worthy enough to spend your Christmas in.
Asked weather they are staying here because of work reasons they answer honestly. Alex says: “I work in Albania, but it is also my home and more importantly a place where I feel at home and feel part of. I am happy to be here over the Christmas, which is where I have many of my friends, my books and music.” Dan agrees while adding that “Sure work comes into it but when you live in a country for now four years you get to love the place – the people, the food – everything. It becomes your home and centre of gravity.”
They can wish you a Merry Christmas in true Albanian.
And with their words I would also like to wish our readers Gezuar Krishtlindjet!
