TIRANA TIMES
During the summer months it’s rare to go an entire day without hearing someone mention plans of traveling to southern Albania. Borsh, Dhermi, Saranda, and Himara are all names commonly dropped. Yet in this season of long days and clear sunny skies, there is an equally stunning, and often forgotten region, well-worth exploring: Theth and Valbona, in northern Albania. Honestly it must be said that when this suggestion is made to many people, the common reaction is, “North? There’s nothing up there!” But beware, this is a misperception. If you’re not convinced, keep reading.
Admittedly, the drive north can be a trying experience. Nevertheless the 360 degree view of some of the highest peaks in the Albanian Alps provided by a stop at the Edith Durham memorial on the way to Theth makes the drive worth the struggle– which, for the sake of full disclosure, will not become easier for a while. It will take 25 km of unpaved and difficult road to finally arrive at Theth. Tedious? Yes, but good things come to those who persevere. Edith Durham once wrote: “I think no place where human beings live has given me such an impression of majestic isolation from all the world. It is a spot where the centuries shrivel; the river might be the world’s well-spring, its banks the fit home of elemental instincts-passions that are red and rapid.” Once in Theth, there are several natural wonders worth visiting. The first is Grunas Waterfall, one of the most stunning waterfalls in Albania, with pristine, crystal waters beckoning swimmers to take a dip. From there, pass through the Grunas canyon, which offers a spectacular view and leads to the Black Well (Pus i zi) where a peaceful rest is recommended before climbing to the Blue Eye (Syri i kalter). This beauty is formed by the falling of the Black river from the mountain. For those seeking some history, venture into the village of Theth where the Lock-in tower, church and the ethnographic museum provide an interesting overview of the area’s historical legacy. To reach Valbona, another spectacular northern site, one must pass the Canyon of Shoshani. Warning: the feeling of winding through endless gorges and up the faces of mountains, one after the other, will return. In fact, nowhere else in Albania are there such steep mountain slopes and valleys as in Klisyra, Dragobia, Quka and Dunisha. But as soon as you become convinced that you’re doomed to this alpine meandering forever, the largest village in the area, Dragobia, will appear. The village is entirely deserted and the greater part of its inhabitants has abandoned the 200 year-old solid stone houses. After leaving Dragobia behind, a second set of spectacular waterfalls come into sight: the Valbona Waterfall. Local legends claim that the waterfalls are blessed by wood fairies (semi-Godlike creatures of Albanian mythology), who would bathe every evening in these crystal waters. If you manage to escape the lure of the fairies, you’ll soon reach the mountains of Jezerca to the north, Zhaborr Ridge and of the Open Gorges to the Southشhe combination of which form a glacial plateau, where the village of Valbona is located, surrounded by eternal snow glistening on the mountain tops. Houses- which resemble ancient miniature stone fortresses which have been adapted and renovated into inns for tourists are also present for those seeking refuge; though camping in tents by night and exploring the Albanian Alps by day is also an option. One of the highlights of this region is Valbona Valley National Park. The valley, with a surface area of about eight thousand hectares, lies in the northern most part of the country, east of the alpine massif which falls within the district of Tropoja. It stretches out along the feet of towering mountains and displays a mesmerizing selection of colors. Rocky peaks, forests, mountain streams and the Valbona River, seen from above, create the image of a giant, breath-taking crater. The park offers a variety of activities for all travelers: fresh water trout fishing, hiking, caving, swimming, boating and a broad range of other sports. Certainly for those seeking something new, much less crowded, and stunningly beautiful, a journey to northern Albania is a must for the summer season.
