By Maire Rowland
Fast and tasty, sociable and plentiful, Zgaras in Tirana provide a great way to enjoy delicious and local food in a relaxed setting.
The wafting scent of grilled meat is difficult to escape on the streets of Tirana and the extremely popular restaurants from which this glorious scent escapes are known as Zgaras.
Although they are located all over the city, Rruga e Kavajes, off Skanderbeg Square, is where you can find the largest selection of Zgaras. Each Zgara boasts its own speciality; one may offer the perfect stuffed pepper, another yoghurt garlic sauce and even more plate up an assortment of meat or offal that will make your mouth water.
Generally, wood is the material of choice in these restaurants – light or dark wooden tables and benches create an unassuming and cosy atmosphere. The waiters wear traditional Albanian outfits and like the ingredients on offer, the music in these eateries tends to be locally sourced. Traditional and modern Albanian songs, energetic and passionate, add to the vibrancy.
The taste of qofte can vary depending on the Zgara you frequent. Some are stuffed with spices and a mixture of pork and beef mince, others are wrapped in pancetta. Pork or chicken shishqebabs, the ultimate BBQ food is charred and mouth-wateringly flavoursome. Another speciality worth trying is Pleskavica, which in Tirana is a burger shaped meat (generally pork) with melted cheese stuffed inside.
If meat isn’t your thing, and you are in search of a healthier option you can choose from a variety of vegetable and salad dishes. The classic cucumber and tomato salad that is a staple in the searing summer heat of Tirana is notably refreshing. Alternatively you can obtain your vitamins from a crunchy sprout and cabbage salad, full of colour and drizzled with olive oil. Plates of grilled mixed vegetables such as aubergines, peppers, zucchinis are also popular.
Traditionally, these types of grills were only frequented by men as they offered cheap places to compliment a meaty meal with a pint of beer or a glass of raki. Over time, however, Zgaras in Tirana have become welcoming places for all the family to dine regardless of age or gender. You are just as likely to see groups of women sampling different dishes and drinking wine as you are to see older Albanian men accompanying their raki with some qofte.
Similar to tapas bars in Spain, food is ordered to share and waiters provide you with your own plate so you can pick and choose from your selection of food. If you think you have room for more after a mountain of qofte it is perfectly acceptable to take another look at the menu. Food arrives promptly but often sporadically so it is wise to keep a mental note of all you have ordered just in case you fill up on stuffed peppers before your huge sizzling plate of chicken pieces arrives.
For those new to the Zgara scene, it is important to note that all plates that are listed on the menu are not always available. Visit a Zgara joint after a particularly crowded party and you may be disappointed to find out that they no longer have any steak available. It is worth asking the waiter what they have that day, or what they recommend before you place your order. This insures minimum disappointment and maximum freshness.
Of course one of the biggest attractions of the Zgara dining experience is the beer. They offer cheap local beer (100 lek for a large glass) such as Tirana, Korce and Elbar which quench the thirst created by the salty meat dishes. Alongside the beer, Zgara’s generally offer house wine that is locally produced and can be bought by the glass or in a decanter of 0.5 or 1 litre.
Zgaras are an enjoyable part of life in the Albanian capital, busy with a casual atmosphere. The various establishments located around the city provide a perfect way to enjoy locally produced foods for excellent prices.
