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By Sidonja Manushi “Upon entering these mountains, I asked the first highlander I met: — what are you!? – Albanian, he answered. I had asked the same question in other places, and they’d replied ‘I am Catholic, I am Muslim, I am Orthodox…” This was Edith Durham’s, British traveler, writer and artist who became famous for her anthropological accounts of life in Albania during the early 20th century, initial description of the country’s northern tradition, behavior and loyalty upon visiting Tropoja in 1904. Before the majority of Albania’s destroyed, underdeveloped and forgotten roads were repaired, it would take one…